This is the Common Sense Gun Control Group (CSGCG) - 
A 3D printable fire control group designed for use in the FGC-9, but compatible with a wide variety of firearms - basically everything that is compatible with AR15 fire control groups.

***** Testing So Far *****

	First off - I've tested this fire control group pretty extensively. I've used it in a couple different AR15s, in two different FGC-9s, an in a Vz61 that takes AR15 fire control groups.
	With the exception of hanging up the bolt on the Vz61 (unless you racked the bolt really hard or were firing it), it has performed very well in these applications.
	In the AR15s, I've probably cleared 300 rounds (5.56x45) plus at least a thousand dry fires. None of the rounds fired had light primer strikes.
	In the FGC-9s, I did have a couple light primer strikes - though I solved this by making a new firing pin for the FGC-9 which featured a more pointed firing pin tip.

	At least 10 beta testers have all confirmed good results with the CSGCG - everyone who has reported issues were able to resolve them (and that feedback has been incorporated in the documentation), though most people had no issues in getting their CSGCG to work.

	Thanks to public beta testing, we know that the standard hammers won't work correctly with CMMG 22lr conversion kits - they are slightly too tall. In order to use this fire control group, print the "CMMG Specific Hammer".

***** Files List *****

	FGC-9 Hammer - The hammer optimized for use in the FGC-9.
	Standard Hammer - The standard hammer to print and use. Meant to work in general applications, but optimized for AR15s.
	CMMG Specific Hammer - This hammer is a little shorter than the standard hammer, and is meant to be used in applications like the CMMG 22lr conversion bolt or other platforms where the height of the hammer is a critical dimension.
	Disconnector - The disconnector for this fire control group.
	Hammer stud - the right side stud for whichever hammer you print. This stud is removed from the hammer to ensure the sear surface on the hammer has contact with the print bed. You can glue or JBWeld this stud on after everything is printed if you want.
	Trigger stud - the right side stud for the trigger. This stud is removed from the trigger to ensure the sear surface on the trigger has contact with the print bed. You can glue or JBWeld this stud on after everything is printed if you want.
	Trigger v1.5 - The stiffened/reinforced trigger.
	Drum v1.3 - the central part of the fire/safety selector assembly
	Lever - the rotational tabs used with the fire/safety selector assembly


***** Parts List *****

	You will need:
	1x AR15 Hammer Spring
	1x AR15 Trigger Spring
	1x AR15 Disconnector Spring
	1x M4x6mm DIN 84 bolt
	1x Paperclip or 0.030" wire (optional)

	1x M3x30mm bolt (cut down to 27mm) for safety selector assembly
	1x M3 nut for safety selector assembly


***** Safety Notice *****

	First off - while I've had no serious issues, unsafe function, or dangerous results when testing/using this fire control group, you should realize that your testing and experience comes with your own risk and responsibility. Note that because the parts of this fire control group are plastic, they can be broken if you try and break/misuse them. When the fire selector is set to "safe", if might be able to get your hammer to fire if you pull *very* hard - but it all depends on your print settings, assembly, and adherence to the steps laid out in this document.
	While I have tested this trigger extensively and have had no unsafe function (even when trying to force it), it's important to understand that IF a fire control group breaks, bad things could happen.
	Again, I've not actually got a fire control group to break, but if one did, you could have an issue where the gun wildfires (full auto until the magazine is empty), where it fires out of battery (not an issue with AR15s, but on some blowbacks it could happen), or causes other issues.
	Because of this fact, I've included a TESTING PLAN further down in this document- this plan will help you ensure that your fire control group will function correctly BEFORE you actually fire it - you'll put undue stress on the parts to ensure they will hold up.


***** Printing Info *****

	I printed and tested these parts in eSun PLA+. I recommend you use the same. If you don't, all bets are off as to what you can expect - it might work, it might not.
	Do note that you MUST use the same print settings listed below to ensure your parts function - if you play fast and loose with nozzle size or infill, weird things can happen.
	PLA+ is fairly wear resistant, and following the directions in this document, you can expect thousands of cycles on your parts without the sear surfaces even showing signs of wear.
	ALL THE STL FILES ARE CORRECTLY ORIENTED AND SCALED. You can rotate the parts about the Z-axis (spin them flat on the print bed) if you would like, but DO NOT change the scale or flip the orientation of these parts. They must print in this orientation to work safely/reliably.
	
	Filament: eSun PLA+ strongly recommended.
	Temp: 230C/50C, nozzle/bed
	Nozzle Size: 0.4mm Strongly Recommended
	Cooling: 30% max, 50% bridges (if this is an available setting), autocooling on (if this is an available setting), fan off for first five layers only
	Bed Adhesion: Strongly recommend you print on a thick layer of gluestick or hairspray. You need these parts to be stuck down tight in order for the sear surfaces to print as straight as possible.
	Layer height: 0.15mm. I'm not sure how critical it is to use 0.15mm layers, but they worked great for me. Different layer heights may cause issues.
	Infill: 100% (you can use 99% if you're running Cura in order to speed the print time up, Cura is weird about 100% fill)
	Brim: Yes. I used a brim and think it can only help keep the parts on the bed a little better. This might be optional, but it only adds like 5 minutes to cleanup time.
	Supports: See the following section (print instructions) to learn which parts need supports turned on. You should use a close support interface profile (the support interface gap should be 0.15mm or so). I used normal supports with a 2mm pattern spacing. If/since you know your printer and setup better than I do, use the support settings you know work best for eliminating sagging on small parts.
	Walls: At least 4. I did 4, and it turned out fine. I wouldn't go lower than 4, but if you're used to doing more than 4, you can.


***** Print Instructions *****

	Print one of each of the STL files, using the settings listed above.
	1x Hammer - Full Supports
	1x Trigger - Full Supports
	1x Disconnector - Full Supports	
	1x Hammer Stud - No Supports
	1x Trigger Stud - No Supports
	1x Drum - No Supports
	2x Lever (if you want a two-sided selector, print 1x lever if this isn't desired) - Full Supports

***** For Post-Printing and Assembly Info, Refer to the 'CSGCG Assembly Tutorial.pdf' file *****