more details about getting started

buying_nixie_tubes.md

@@ -12,16 +12,20 @@ exixe14 is compatible with IN-14 tubes, while exixe12 is for IN-12 tubes:
 
 ![Alt text](resources/exixetubes.jpg)
 
-
 You can find those tubes on ebay by searching [IN-12 Nixie](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=in-12+nixie) or [IN-14 Nixie](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=in-14+nixie). Most of the sellers are from Ukraine, and often you have a choice of NOS (new old stock) or used tubes.
 
 ## NOS or used?
 
 NOS tubes are brand new and have never been used before. They are more expensive but they are the best bet when it comes to reliability and brightness.
 
-Used tubes are desoldered from old instruments. You don't know how long they have been operating and in what condition. They have shorter pins than new tubes, often have cathode poisoning, sometimes even missing pins or pins.
+Used tubes are desoldered from old instruments. You don't know how long they have been operating and in what condition. They have shorter pins than new tubes, often have cathode poisoning, sometimes even missing digits or pins.
 
 For IN-14 tubes, I recommend buying new ones if you can afford it. If not, used ones work too but you do need to buy a few more than you need in case of duds.
 
-IN-12 tubes are cheap enough so there is no reason to buy used ones at all. It has 2 variants: IN-12A and IN-12B. They are exactly the same except IN-12B has a left decimal point. Both work with exixe12 modules. 
+IN-12 tubes are cheap enough that there is no reason to buy used ones at all. It has 2 variants: IN-12A and IN-12B. They are exactly the same except IN-12B has a left decimal point. Both work with exixe12 modules. 
 
+## Handling Nixie tubes
+
+They are made of glass, so don't break them. They also have mercury vapor in them, so really don't break them.
+
+Nixie tubes use a tiny amount of power and don't run hot at all, so it's alright to touch the glass while they are running. You can use rubbing rubbing alcohol and paper towel to clean the glass, although the alcohol might take the markings off.

getting_started.md

@@ -12,41 +12,63 @@ There are a couple of things you need before we get going, so let's get them out
 
 Nixie tubes need around 180V to start glowing. That means you need a high voltage supply for them to work.
 
-You can design one yourself, although I recommend saving the trouble and getting a premade module [like this one](https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-5V-12V-to-170V-DC-High-Voltage-NIXIE-Power-Supply-Module-PSU-NIXIE-TUBE-ERA-/322511957768?hash=item4b1735ef08:g:ftQAAOSwYTVZmjZb). They are tiny, inexpensive, efficient, and run on 5V. Just search [5V Nixie power supply](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=5V+Nixie+power+supply) on ebay or google. 
+You can design one yourself, although I recommend saving the trouble and getting a premade module [like this one](https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-5V-12V-to-180V-DC-High-Voltage-NIXIE-Power-Supply-Module-PSU-NIXIE-TUBE-ERA-/322511957768?hash=item4b1735ef08:g:ftQAAOSwYTVZmjZb). They are tiny, inexpensive, efficient, and run on 5V. Just search [5V Nixie power supply](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=5V+Nixie+power+supply) on ebay or google. 
 
 In the end, you should have the tube, corresponding exixe board, headers, and the high voltage supply:
 
 ![Alt text](resources/all.jpg)
 
-## Testing the exixe module
+## Testing the bare module
 
-Let's make sure the board is working first before soldering on the Nixie tubes.
+Let's make sure the board works before hooking up high voltage and installing the tubes.
 
 Solder on the headers, then take a look at the pinout in [technical_details.md](/technical_details.md).
 
 First we hook up the power pins. Connect the GND to GND, and 3.3V power to 3V3. 
 
-Next are the SPI lines. Connect MO to MOSI line, SCK to SCK line, and CS to CS line. For Arduino UNO, MOSI is pin 11, SCK is pin 13, CS is pin 10. Consult the pinout page if you're using other boards.
+Next are the SPI lines. Connect MO to MOSI line, SCK to SCK line, and CS to CS line. For Arduino UNO, MOSI is pin 11, SCK is pin 13, CS is pin 10. Consult the datasheet if you're using other boards.
 
-MISO is not used so you can leave it off. Leave HV pin unconnected for now as well. If you are unfamiliar with SPI, or need a refresher, [sparkfun's introduction](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/serial-peripheral-interface-spi) is really helpful, and [the wikipedia page](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_Peripheral_Interface_Bus) has more details.
-
-Now you can go through the [provided Arduino examples](/arduino_examples). Try the [LED test](/arduino_examples/0_LED_test) first. Compile and upload the sketch, the LED on the exixe module should turn purple. You can play around with the RGB values in the sketch to change it to other colors.
+Then try the [LED test](/arduino_examples/0_LED_test). Compile and upload the sketch in Arduino IDE. The LED on the exixe module should turn purple. You can play around with the RGB values in the sketch to change it to other colors.
 
 ![Alt text](resources/example0.jpg)
 
-If the board is not responding, take a look at the SPI commands in [technical_details.md](/technical_details.md) to make sure the SPI is configured properly, and the commands are valid. Use a logic analyzer to see what's going on if you have one, make sure the RST pin is HIGH, and CS pin is asserted properly.
+If the board is not responding, take a look at the SPI commands in [technical_details.md](/technical_details.md) to make sure the SPI is configured properly, and the commands are valid. Also make sure the RST pin is HIGH, and CS pin is asserted properly. Use a logic analyzer to see what's going on if you have one.
 
-### High voltage supply and tube testing
+### Testing tubes
 
-Needless to say the high voltage needed to drive Nixie tubes is dangerous. Those high voltage modules above probably won't generate enough current to kill you, but you do feel a tingle if your finger is dry, and a rather nasty shock if it's damp, so do watch out where you put your fingers.
+I recommend testing your tubes first to make sure all digits light up. You can probably get away with this if you're using NOS tubes, but for used ones this is essential.
 
-Always test your tubes first before soldering them to the module. You can do that by connecting the anode to +180V through a 68K resistor, and touch each cathode with GND and see if the corresponding digit lights up.
+Connect +5V to 5V input of the high voltage module, and GND to GND. You should get around 180V at the HV output pin. Be very careful not to touch that. It might not kill you but you'll definitely feel that.
 
-After making sure the tube is good, you can solder it to the module. Look at the pinout in [technical_details.md](/technical_details.md), and double check the pins are in the right hole, the anode pin should be in the anode hole, and the rest of them lined up properly.
+Next locate the anode on you tube:
 
-### Example Sketches
+![Alt text](resources/anode.jpg)
 
-Once that's done, connect the 180V output of the supply to the HV pin of exixe module, make sure your Arduino, high voltage supply, and exixe module all share the same GND, and try the [show_digit4](/arduino_examples/1_show_digit4) and [show_all_digits](/arduino_examples/2_show_all_digits) example next.
+On IN-14 the anode pin is on the very back of the tube and is white inside the glass. On IN-12 an arrow on the glass points to the anode pin, which is rather convenient.
+
+To test the tube, connect the anode to 180V **THROUGH A 68K RESISTOR**, then touch each cathode with GND and see if the corresponding digit lights up:
+
+![Alt text](resources/test_sch.png)
+
+Be very careful not to touch exposed metal pins, you might want to wear a glove just to be sure.
+
+## Solder it on
+
+After making sure the tube is good, you can insert it to the module. Match anode pin to the anode hole, then line up everything else:
+
+![Alt text](resources/anodes.jpg)
+
+It's a bit tricky on the IN-14 since the pins are not rigid. Just be patient and eventually it will all go in. Again, make sure the anode and every other pin is lined up correctly, then solder the tube in place.
+
+Try keep the tube straight. For IN-14 leave around 5mm of pins between the PCB and the glass as demonstrated in the middle tube:
+
+![Alt text](resources/soldered.jpg)
+
+It's also a good idea wrap the bottom of IN-14 tubes with heat-shrink tubing or electric tape like the one on the right, to prevent backlight leaking.
+
+## Try some examples!
+
+Once that's done, connect 180V to the HV pin of exixe module, make sure your Arduino, high voltage supply, and exixe module all share the same GND. Then try [show_digit4](/arduino_examples/1_show_digit4) and [show_all_digits](/arduino_examples/2_show_all_digits).
 
 The first one just shows the digit 4:
 
@@ -56,4 +78,4 @@ And the second one loops through all the digits from 0 to 9:
 
 ![Alt text](resources/example2.gif)
 
-That's pretty much it! You can let your imagination run free now. You can probably adopt the functions in [show_all_digits](/arduino_examples/2_show_all_digits) for more complex display routines, or write some fancy crossfade transition animations like [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3d2alzgjKc). And if you're not using Arduino, the code is simple enough to adept to other embedded systems, it's just plain C after all.
+That's pretty much it! You can let your imagination run free now. You can probably adopt the functions in [show_all_digits](/arduino_examples/2_show_all_digits) for more complex display routines, or write some fancy crossfade transition animations like [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3d2alzgjKc). And if you're not using Arduino, the code is simple enough to adept to other embedded systems.

technical_details.md

@@ -38,8 +38,11 @@ exixe expects a fixed 16-byte command, which should be sent within one CS activa
 ### Notes
 
 * Only one single digit should be on at any given time, apart from during transition animations.
+
 * Dots can be turned on alongside digits.
 
+* If you are unfamiliar with SPI, or need a refresher, [sparkfun's introduction](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/serial-peripheral-interface-spi) is really helpful, and [the wikipedia page](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_Peripheral_Interface_Bus) has more details.
+
 ### Sample timing capture
 
 Setting digit 4 to fully on while other digits are off, no overdrive, orange LED color: